Showing posts with label Pesticides. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pesticides. Show all posts

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Ghosts! Hive Check: Week 12

This week I took the hive check slow and easy so a film crew could capture the action. Which means my second solo hive check was caught on film. It wasn’t always a pretty picture but we got it done!

The day got off to a slow start. A miscommunication about equipment left me with 20 minutes to find a stand-in smoker and all of my bee people were out of town or not picking up the phone. So I did what anyone would have done—I went up to Eagle Street Farm, transplanted purple basil seedlings while waiting for Annie to get back to open farm day on the roof, and got Meg’s OK to borrow their spare. Added bonus, Annie uses dried herbs for fuel so I bought a packet of tarragon and sage from the farmstand and fired up the smoke gun with Brooklyn’s finest herbs de provence. Lucky bees.

Made it to the roof but with no jacket and no hive tool (Word to the wise: sharing equipment is awesome until it’s not. If you’re jointly managing hives, git your own gear) but since the bees were pleasant and hadn’t left any propolis to speak of, I had no problem pulling the frames out bare-fingered.

Hive #1 held no surprises. The recent super is being drawn out nicely, almost to the external frames. The brood pattern is incredibly tight although I didn’t see as many babies in the center frames as one might want. This hive (Tim’s hive) continues to create wonky, bumpy, psychedelic wax-- unlike the precise, pristine, craftsmanly comb that hive #2 (my hive) draws out. If dog owners and their pets grow to take on each other’s traits, the same seemingly holds true for beekeepers.

There wasn’t much need to go into the bottom super, and the hive had already been open a long time to give the filmmakers a chance to shoot closeups, so I left it alone. But ladies, really. Stop building brace comb in the feeder. There’s a nectar and pollen dearth. Don’t cut yourself off from your food!

Didn't manage to get a good pic of the tight brood pattern but here's one of the penultimate external frame, which is mostly nectar/sugar water.

Before we move to hive #2 I have an announcement. I have settled on a name for the hive and the queen.

Literal, glam-rock loving woman that I am, this hive shall be known as Queen.

God save Freddie Mercury

Since their first album was eponymous and the second was Queen 2, I’ll either keep numbering them ad infinitum or name the third “Sheer Heart Attack.” The queens themselves will take the names of songs, because with long names they’ll sound like racehorses. This queen is now known as Lazing On A Sunday Afternoon. For one, we do a lot of Sunday inspections. Two, were this queen human she’d be a quaintrelle; interested in a life of leisure and cultivation of an aristocratic lifestyle although being solidly middle-class. Perfect embodiment of the song! And I like to imagine her bicycling, waltzing to the zoo, painting in the Louvre, and doing all the other things the dandy does in the song.

So how is Queen Lazing doing? Well, predictably. These ladies haven’t made many inroads to building up into the top super, or building out in the bottom super. I did see her, and many of her little eggs, but the eggs were in a spotty, devil-may-care pattern. The brood pattern was weak too, in the top and bottom supers both. Oh Queen. Where’s the energy? Where’s the passion?

Nothing to see here

But beyond that I got a nasty surprise looking at frame 7 of the top super. Ghost bees! A small cluster of fully developed bee babies were stuck in their cells, nearly-completely uncapped, white as sheets. It wasn’t a dusting of white—they were white to the bone. Er, exoskeleton.

I ain't afraid o no ghosts.

See 'em?

What would cause this? The phenomenon is known as “bald brood” which is a blanket term for a lot of things that could go wrong. Here’s my email to TimO after doing some looking into it.

ooookay! I looked through a lot of sources and given what I observed I do believe it's early stages of wax moth infestation. that's based on:


-- localized occurrence that we hadn't seen before till now. if it's behavioral or genetic why would it be in only one area, and take so long to appear?
-- wax moths usually come in from the top (so good prevention is a top screen) and occur when the bees have too many supers to adequately monitor. that's not unreasonable given the slow comb drawing of hive 2.


the good news:
-- i didn't see more than this patch. no evidence of destroyed comb or spiderwebby moth larvae. it's probably either in its early stage or the bees will take care of it soon. but i'd rather err on the side of early intervention rather than waiting to see


available treatments:
-- deweb, remove ghost brood, freeze for 2 weeks. Recommendation: pain in the ass, my freezer is tiny, i don't buy it.
-- certan (aka b401). it's basically what organic farmers use as an alternative to chemical insecticide. it's just concentrated bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) which is as you no doubt are aware is one of the more common things to put into a GMO (so the plant produces its own insecticide) but in natural form it's quite harmless. Will not hurt the bees, the applicator (i.e. us) or the environment. Recommendation: Ask Kirk Anderson if it's really as benign as people say it is, and get it on there asap. Mabye one of our friends in brooklyn has some they'll give us if we replace it so we can get it on there asap instead of waiting for a delivery from BeeWorks in Canada. I'll gladly foot the $23 canadian dollars
-- ParcidiChlorBenzene. AAAAGH! RUN AWAY!
-- additional precaution: make a moth bait. exactly like a fruit fly bait. put it over in one of the corners of the roof a little away from the hives. water, vinegar, sugar, banana in a 2-liter soda bottle with a hole up near the neck. to help make sure the infestation doesn't spread. and if we catch moths we'll have a positive ID that there are moths in the vicinity. Will also lessen moth population to avoid spreading into other hive.
-- consider sanitizing equipment when moving between hive 1 and 2 (or just always do hive 1 first). consider sanitizing equipment before going to Added Value.

Tim texts back:
Probably not a problem. I’m not sure I buy the wax moth theory of bald brood. They eat cocoons, not wax, and usually travel in the midrib.

And then he texted me a picture of his family’s lake in Canada where he was spending the weekend, and the conversation dropped. So stay tuned for the next episode of the Case of the Ghostly Bees, in which the mask comes off and our villain, present from the start, says he would have gotten away with it if it weren't for you darn kids.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Pesticide Sprays: Keep Your Hive Alive

*UPDATE*  Due to the rain, spraying has been delayed until tonight (August 4th) in Brooklyn and Queens, and August 8th in Rockaway!
"Tonight's spraying in Queens and Brooklyn has been postponed until tomorrow night due to weather. Tomorrow night's originally scheduled spraying in Queens is now scheduled for August 8, weather permitting."

A helpful local beekeeper (Thanks, Dennis) sent me this notice from the NYC Department of Health:
The Health Department Will Spray Pesticide to Reduce Adult Mosquito Populations

Spraying scheduled for parts of Brooklyn and Queens to help prevent West Nile Virus

August 1, 2011 - To reduce mosquito activity and the risk of West Nile Virus, the Health Department will spray pesticide from trucks in parts of Pomonok and Holliswood in Queens, and parts of Greenwood Heights, Park Slope and Windsor Terrace in Brooklyn, on Wednesday, August 3, 2011 between the hours of 8:15 p.m. and 6 a.m. the following morning, weather permitting. In case of bad weather, application will be delayed until Thursday, August 4, during the same hours.

Ground-based spraying will occur in Far Rockaway on Thursday, August 4 between the hours of 8:15 p.m. and 6 a.m. the following morning, weather permitting. In case of bad weather, application will be delayed until Monday, August 8, during the same hours. Recently, the Health Department received several mosquito nuisance complaints from the neighborhoods of Arverne, Somerville, Edgemere, Bayswater; Edgemere Park and Dubos Point Wildlife Sanctuary. Some mosquito breeding sites in these areas are inaccessible. The Health Department believes that the proposed nuisance ground application of adulticide will reduce the population of nuisance mosquitoes.

For these sprayings, the Health Department will use a very low concentration of Anvil 10 + 10, a synthetic pesticide. The use of pesticides in New York City is conducted in accordance with guidelines set by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC). A complete Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) is available at www.nyc.gov/html/doh/html/wnv/feis.shtml.

Maps of the affected areas:


August 8

8:15PM - 6:00AM
Spraying in Queens
  • • Neighborhoods: Arverne/Somerville, Edgemere, Bayswater and Edgemere Park and Landfill
  • • Zip codes: 11691 and 11692
  • • Pesticide to be used: Anvil 10+10 


August 4

8:15PM - 6:00AM
Spraying in Brooklyn
  • • Neighborhoods: Greenwood Heights
  • • Zip codes: 11215, 11218, 11219, 11225, 11226, 11232 and 11238
  • • Pesticide to be used: Anvil 10+10 


August 4

8:15PM - 6:00AM
Spraying in Queens
  • • Neighborhoods: Parts of Pomonok, Queensboro Hill, Kissena Park, Murray Hill, Fresh Meadows, Flushing Cemetery and St Mary's Cemetery
  • • Zip codes: 11355, 11358, 11364, 11365, 11366, 11423 and 11427
  • • Pesticide to be used: Anvil 10+10 

So what should you do?

Well, there are a couple things to take in to consideration. Firstly, the spraying is being done by ground level trucks and at night in a relatively small number of neighborhoods, so unless you live in one of the areas highlighted in the maps above and your hives are in the front yard and populated with vampire bees, the little buggers probably will not be sprayed directly. Your bees won’t be flying at night, so your foragers won’t be directly in the line of fire.

HOWEVER, that does not mean you shouldn’t take basic precautions to minimize exposure through overspray or drift. Jim at NYC Beekeeping suggests setting up a tent of sorts to protect the front and sides of the hive from any spray. An explanation of his idea can be found HERE, and a diagram of his suggested set-up is HERE.

Many of you will not have the time or materials to set up a tent on such short notice. Well babies, don't you panic. By the light of the night when it all seems alright, I’ll suggest some other methods to minimize exposure.

The lows for the next two nights are 68 and 70, respectively. Because we are lucky enough to have a break in the heatwave and because the active sprays are being done at night, I suggest simply closing up the entrance to the hive with wire mesh or screen in the evening. You can then loosely drape the front of the hive with a wet, breathable cloth. Burlap would be best, but if you don’t have that, get creative. An old bed sheet would probably do the trick. The screen will prevent any bees from flying, and the damp cloth will both prevent spray from getting in (or on) the hive and help keep it cool.

Make sure you remove both the screen and the cloth in the morning, otherwise your bees won’t be able to keep the hive cool in the heat of the day.

To minimize the exposure of your field force or foraging bees, you should gorge the hive with sugar syrup. You all have hive feeders, and now is the time to use them. By giving the bees an internal supply of food, you will curb the numbers of bees leaving the hive, and accordingly minimize the number of bees exposed to residual pesticides.

The authors of The Beekeepers Handbook, Diana Sammataro and Alphonse Avitable, suggest pouring a quart of sugar syrup directly on top of the frames twice a day for two to three days after a spray to limit foraging. I think that the combination of a hive top feeder and a couple of sprays of sugar water in and on the front of the hive should be sufficiently distracting. If you’ve been seeing a lot of pollen come in, you might consider feeding a pollen supplement as well, to discourage them from bringing in contaminated pollen.

The short version:
1.) In the EVENING BEFORE THE SPRAY: Close up your hives with screen mesh blocking the entrance and a wet, breathable cloth draped over the front of your hive. This will prevent direct exposure of the bees to the pesticide, and help prevent the hive from getting covered with chemicals.
2.) In the MORNING AFTER THE SPRAY: Open the hive back up by removing the cloth and screen. This prevents your hive from overheating.
3.) GORGE YOUR HIVES with artificial feed (sugar syrup and pollen supplement) before and for several days AFTER the spray. This minimizes (but does not eliminate) the number of bees actively foraging and being exposed to residual pesticides.

Good luck, kiddos!